Vertical lip lines have an unfair nickname. People call them smoker's lines, which suggests you only get them if you smoke. Plenty of people who have never touched a cigarette see them appear above the lip in their forties and fifties.
The causes are mostly structural and predictable, and that is good news, because it means a layered routine can genuinely soften them. Let’s discover how to form a routine to avoid and soften them.
Why Vertical Lip Lines Form
The skin around the mouth is prone to creasing. It is thinner than the skin on the rest of the face; it has very few oil glands, and it sits over a muscle, the orbicularis oris, that you move constantly when you talk, eat, drink, and purse your lips. That repeated folding, repeated thousands of times a day, eventually leaves a mark in skin that is losing its support.
The support loss is the second half of the story. As collagen and elastin decline with age, and as years of sun exposure break down the skin's scaffolding, those repeated creases stop bouncing back. Add the slow loss of volume around the mouth, and the lines settle in.
Smoker's Lines Without Smoking
So why do non-smokers get them? Because smoking is an accelerant, not the only cause. The pursing motion smokers repeat is the same motion everyone makes through drinking from straws and normal speech. The underlying drivers, such as intrinsic aging, sun damage, repetitive muscle movement, and volume loss, apply to everyone. Smoking simply speeds all of that up by damaging collagen and reducing blood flow to the skin.
This matters for treatment. If the lines were purely a smoking problem, quitting would fix them. As they are mostly structural, the fix is a routine that prevents new damage, rebuilds support, and relaxes the creasing.
The layered routine that may visibly soften their appearance
No single product addresses every cause, which is exactly why a layered approach works better than chasing one hero step. Here is how the layers stack.
Help protect against visible photoaging. Sun protection is the most important anti-aging step for the lip area, full stop. Daily Age Defense SPF 45 protects the fragile perioral skin from photoaging that breaks down collagen in the first place.
Renew the skin. A retinoid is one of the most evidence-backed topicals for helping improve the look of smoother, firmer skin over time. The Retinol A Serum (2%) supports cell turnover and collagen around the mouth. Introduce it slowly, since this area is sensitive.
Plump and hydrate. Hydrated skin creases less. The Hyaluronic Acid Serum draws moisture into the surface for an immediate softening effect, while the Plasma Restore GLO – Volufiline™ Cream helps improve the appearance of plumpness.
Helps soften the appearance of expression lines. Because the orbicularis oris keeps folding the skin, a topical that softens expression lines is useful. The Revox Line Relaxer™ is formulated as a peptide-based softener for exactly this kind of repeated-motion line.
Stimulate collagen directly. Two tools do this well around the mouth. The plasmaSOMES™ / Micro-Needle Kit uses controlled micro-channels to stimulate collagen production, and the PlasmaGLO™ LED Lip and Mouth Device delivers targeted light therapy specifically designed for perioral rejuvenation.
Care for the lips themselves. Fuller, well-conditioned lips make the lines above them less obvious. The Lip Enhancer is a volumizing treatment, and the Coconut Lip Balm keeps the lip surface soft and smooth.
You can see the full curated set on the Vertical Lip Lines routine page and browse all options in the Lips collection.
A Simple AM and PM Lip-Line Routine
Morning: Hydrate with the Hyaluronic Acid Serum, apply the Plasma Restore GLO – Volufiline™ Cream around the mouth, then seal with Age Defense SPF 45 and the Coconut Lip Balm.
Evening: On alternating nights, use the Retinol A Serum (2%). On other nights, apply the Revox Line Relaxer™. Run the PlasmaGLO™ LED Lip and Mouth Device a few times a week, and reserve the plasmaSOMES™ / Micro-Needle Kit for one or two nights a week, never on the same night as retinol. Explore more actives in the Serums and Vitamin C collection and tools in the microneedling collection.
When to Consider In-Office Options
A home routine softens lip lines and slows their progression. For deeper, set-in lines, in-clinic options like dermal fillers, neuromodulators, and resurfacing lasers can do more because they work at levels that topicals cannot reach. These procedures are performed by a qualified provider and pair well with a consistent home routine that helps maintain results between visits.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can you get rid of vertical lip lines without injections?
You can soften them meaningfully with a layered routine of sun protection, retinoids, hydration, and collagen-stimulating tools. Deep lines may need in-clinic procedures.
Why do I have smoker's lines if I do not smoke?
They are mostly caused by aging, sun damage, and repeated mouth movement. Smoking only speeds up a process that affects everyone.
What is the single most important step?
Daily sun protection. UV damage is a leading driver of collagen breakdown around the mouth.
Does microneedling help lip lines?
Yes, by triggering collagen production in the perioral skin. Use it consistently and not on the same nights as retinol.
Building Your Lip-Line Routine
Vertical lip lines form for reasons you can address. Protect the skin, rebuild its support with retinoids and collagen-stimulating tools, keep it hydrated, and relax the repeated creasing. Layer those steps consistently, and the area above your lip can look smoother and softer over time.
For a wider plan, the Healthy Aging routine ties the lip area into your full-face approach.
Disclaimer: The information here is for educational purposes and is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease. Results may vary.
References:
Wunsch, Alexander, and Karsten Matuschka. "A Controlled Trial to Determine the Efficacy of Red and Near-Infrared Light Treatment in Patient Satisfaction, Reduction of Fine Lines, Wrinkles, Skin Roughness, and Intradermal Collagen Density Increase." Photomedicine and Laser Surgery, vol. 32, no. 2, 2014, pp. 93–100. https://doi.org/10.1089/pho.2013.3616.
Barolet, Daniel, et al. "Regulation of Skin Collagen Metabolism In Vitro Using a Pulsed 660 nm LED Light Source: Clinical Correlation with a Single-Blinded Study." Journal of Investigative Dermatology, vol. 129, no. 12, 2009, pp. 2751–59. https://doi.org/10.1038/jid.2009.186.
Avci, Pinar, et al. "Low-Level Laser (Light) Therapy (LLLT) in Skin: Stimulating, Healing, Restoring." Seminars in Cutaneous Medicine and Surgery, vol. 32, no. 1, 2013, pp. 41–52. www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4126803/.
DISCLAIMER: This video does not contain any medical or health related diagnosis or treatment advice. Content provided on this YouTube Channel is for informational purposes only. For any medical or health related advice, please consult with a physician or other healthcare professionals. Further, information about specific products or treatments within this video are not to intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent disease.
